The Travel Photographer's Photo-Expeditions™ 2011

Although I haven't firmed up any decisions yet, I am starting to mull over two (of the possible 3) Photo-Expeditions™ for 2011 that will be non-Arab Islam-centric. The two expeditions' underlying themes will be documenting the existing syncretism between Islam, its Sufi offshoot and another major tradition. The itineraries will include photographing certain rituals at obscure religious sites, as well as at other locations...I can't be more specific at this stage without letting the cat out of the bag.

As followers of my Photo-Expeditions™ news and of this blog know, I've decided to further accentuate the travel-documentary thrust of my photo~expeditions, and reduce the maximum number of participants to only 5 (excluding myself) on each trip.

My recent expeditions have become so popular that they've swelled up to 9-10 participants, and generated long waiting lists. As of 2011, participation will no longer be based on "first registered first in", but will be based on a portfolio viewing and other criteria. Details of the 2011 itineraries will be announced to subscribers to my newsletter mailing list.

In the meantime, I'm readying some pre-departure information for the participants in my Bali: Island of Odalan Photo-Expedition™ due to start August 1. Exciting stuff!!!

Bhutan: Land of Druk Yul Photo Expedition

Due to a last minute cancellation caused by a personal change in circumstances, the Bhutan: Land of Druk Yul Photo Expedition currently has room for only one participant. The dates of the photo~expedition are from September 23 to October 7, 2009.

If you're interested, click on the photo~expedition link, review the terms and itinerary and register at the earliest if it works for you. This opportunity will only be available until July 16.

Gnawa Festival: What Worked/What Didn't

Photo © Tewfic El-Sawy -All Rights Reserved
To end the recent string of post-expedition navel-gazings, here's what I think worked and didn't in terms of gear during the Gnawa Festival photo-expedition. As readers of this blog know, I opted for a minimalist equipment load, and stuffed my Domke F-3X with the following:

* Canon EOS 5D Mark II
* Canon G10
* Canon 17-40mm f4.0
* Canon 28-70mm f 2.8
* Canon 24mm f1.4
* Marantz PMD 620 Audio Recorder
* Acer Aspire One 8.9-inch Mini Laptop (w/LR2 and SoundSlides)
* A 250gb G-Tech Mini G-Drive External Hard Drive

I used my 5D Mark II fitted with the Canon 28-70mm f2.8 about 70% of the time, the 70-200 f2.8 about 20% of the time and the 17-40mm f4.0 the balance. The 24mm f1.4 never left the bag this time. Wherever I went, I felt I needed the flexibility of zooms, and a prime wouldn't be useful in the situations where I photographed. I experienced initial difficulty in focusing on moving subjects, and blamed my 70-200 lens until I realized that I hadn't turned on my camera's AI Servo AF mode!

I have to say that my beloved 70-200 f2.8 is on its last legs. I guess it dropped too many times in Orissa, on Angkor Wat's stone slabs, in Bali's rice paddies and elsewhere. It now wobbles and rattles and, while it still works, it also earned a well deserved retirement...maybe as door stop.

My experience with the G10 was an unhappy one, and I left it aside after a few tries. I had high hopes that it would be a perfect street camera for the alleys of the medinas, but it frustrated me and I gave up after a while. Larry Larsen, a member of the photo-expedition, used his as a point & shoot and seemed reasonably content with its images. Perhaps he managed his expectations better than I did. I have no doubt that in the right hands and used in the appropriate conditions, it's a fine little point & shoot. However, in my case I expected something more...but I didn't have the time nor patience to work at it.

I thought the PMD 620 recorder performed quite well in the rather extreme situations I put it through. Since most of the Gnawa performances were held in small zaouias, the din of the iron querqab (castanets) used by the Gnawa caused significant distortion in the recordings. Moving around to better positions was impractical, so I had to choose a spot where to stand or sit, record and photograph...not exactly an easy thing to do. I tried using Audacity's filters, but the distortion on some of the sound tracks is still too harsh. As one expert told me when I complained, distortion happens and we have to live with it (or not) sometimes.

Both the Acer and the G-Tech Mini G-Drive performed flawlessly. No complaints there.

Kolkata's Cult of Durga: New 2011 Photo Expedition

I'm pleased to announce details of my Kolkata's Cult of Durga Photo Expedition™ scheduled from September 29 to October 13, 2011.

Kolkata's Durga Puja is the most important religious festival of West Bengal, celebrating the Hindu goddess Durga. Due to its importance, it's the most significant socio-cultural event in Bengali society of the year. It's during this annual spiritual event that I shall conduct a photo expedition/workshop.

The purpose of this photo~expedition is to photograph the innumerable rites associated with the Durga Puja festivities; and since Kolkata offers a diverse, gritty, and a visually compelling environment to photographers, it'll also be a "street-photography-heavy" workshop, with a multimedia component.

For details, drop by Kolkata's Cult of Durga Photo Expedition™

Bali: Odalan at Pura Desa Sapat

Photo © Tewfic El-Sawy-All Rights Reserved
Here's the first gallery of my own work whilst I was leading the Bali: Island of Odalan Photo~Expedition™ last month.

It's a linear photo gallery of about 20 large color photographs made during an important anniversary of a Balinese Hindu temple, and it's titled Odalan: Pura Desa Sapat. It's more photo journalistic in style than travel, and there are graphic photographs of animals being sacrificed, which may be disturbing to some.

This was one of the two most intense photo-shoots during the whole photo~expedition...not only because of the time spent photographing, but also because of the unending kaleidoscope of movements, rituals, rites and activities.

Every temple in Bali has a scheduled festival, an odalan, to celebrate the anniversary of temple dedication. The timing of the anniversaries are either based on the lunar calendar or on a 210-day ceremonial cycle. Depending on the importance of the anniversary and on the wealth of its community, animals are occasionally sacrificed.

These anniversary events are important for the communal harmony of the Balinese, where villages will join other villages to pray at their odalan, adding their blessings for the success of the occasion.

Penni Webb: Bali Island of Odalan

Photo © Penni Webb-All Rights Reserved
Penni Webb is a second time participant in my photo~expeditions, and is the sixth to submit samples of her work made during the Bali: Island of Odalan Photo~Expedition ™.

Penni is a professional photographer as well as an Interior Designer and Organizer in Marin, California. She has an MA from the SFAI in Printmaking, learned Photography at California College of the Arts and worked with several Master Photographers such as Phil Borges.

Her first photograph is of Rejang dancers during a pre-cremation ceremony at a private house. The girl in the middle was a natural...and loved to pose for cameras. Rejang dancers are usually young females, dressed in bright yellow and white silk and headdresses made from fresh young coconut leaves decorated with flowers. The Rejang dancers represent the female angels who accompany deities.

Photo © Penni Webb-All Rights Reserved
The above photograph is one that was made by most of the group's members, and is of an elderly Balinese matriarch returning to her traditional home after having emptied a basket of morning offerings, known in Bali as canang.

Photo © Penni Webb-All Rights Reserved
The third photograph is of a Balinese woman snapping a picture with her cellphone of three Rejang dancers during a during a melasti ceremony at Masceti beach.

Before starting her business in 1999, she managed and directed contemporary art and antique galleries and was a photographer for a large event & film company in Oakland. Her hand-painted photography work is represented by Smith Andersen North in San Anselmo where she had a solo show in 2008. She has exhibited her photographs and prints nationally since 1974.

Bo Jungner: Bali Island of Odalan

Photo © Bo Jungner -All Rights Reserved
Bo Jungner is a first time participant in my photo~expeditions, and is the fourth to submit samples of his work made during the Bali: Island of Odalan Photo~Expedition ™.

Bo holds a MSc in Business Administration and Economics from the Stockholm School of Economics and works for a Swedish-based private equity company. He's also a photography enthusiast who joined my group whilst in Bali with his family.

When I first saw the above photograph of a Rejang dancer adjusting her headgear during a melasti ceremony, I told Bo that it was my favorite I had seen from his portfolio. I still think it is.

Photo © Bo Jungner -All Rights Reserved
The second photograph may repel some of the viewers, but washing skeletons is what happens during the exhumation which precedes a cremation in Bali. The whole event is a joyous one for the Balinese as the cremation of the body leads to the release of the soul, and brings final closure to the families. We were photographing in a small village in the Gianyar Regency, and spent some 6-7 hours shooting non-stop under a merciless sun. It was one of the most intense photo shoots during the expedition.

Photo © Bo Jungner -All Rights Reserved
This photograph is of a group of young Rejang dancers during a pre-cremation ceremony at a private house. We were welcomed, and feted like old friends by the family of the deceased, and welcomed by the whole neighborhood. The first dancer was really very comfortable with the cameras, and posed for us very professionally despite her young age.

Photo © Bo Jungner -All Rights Reserved
Here Bo photographed the preparation for a cockfight which was to take place on a beach during a temple odalan. Normally, cockfights in Bali are illegal unless these are connected to temple ceremonies.

Sandy Chandler: Bali Island of Odalan

Photo © Sandra Chandler -All Rights Reserved
A third-time participant in my photo-expeditions (The Gnawa in Morocco, Tribes of Rajasthan & Gujarat, and Bali Island of Odalan), Sandra Chandler is a photographer and interior designer based in San Francisco. She tells us that color, smells and sounds drew her to world travel. Her city's Asian culture first enticed her to China in 1978 when the People’s Republic first opened. She then continued her exploration of Asia by traveling to Bhutan, India, Japan, Singapore, Nepal, Thailand, Tibet, and on to South America and Europe.

The above photograph was made at one of the many odalan anniversary celebrations in Bali during our trip. The musicians play traditional instruments such as the gamelan, and are called upon to perform at many functions, including weddings and cremations.

Photo © Sandra Chandler -All Rights Reserved
The above photograph was made during the Legong dance perfomance at the Ubud Place, and is of the Baris. The Baris is a traditional war dance of the island, in which a male dancer depicts the feelings of a young warrior prior to battle.

Photo © Sandra Chandler -All Rights Reserved
This photograph was made at an odalan held in a forest setting, near the village of Birta. Here, female pemangku are surrounded by incense (known as dupa) smoke used to appease the spirits and accompany offerings at all temple ceremonies.

Photo © Sandra Chandler -All Rights Reserved
The adorable grand-daughter of a wayang kulit (shadow puppet master) was a willing subject for Sandy's lens. We spent about 3 hours at the home of I Wayan Martha, the shadow puppeteer, in Sukawati where he and his assistants gave us a private performance of this traditional Javanese/Balinese tradition.

Sandy also published a book ‘Carnevale, Fantasy of Venice' of her beautiful photographs of Venice and its magical Carnevale.

Bhutan: Land of Druk Yul

Photograph © Tewfic El-Sawy
I will be on my Land of the Druk Yul photo expedition from September 28 to October 18. A few days in London, then on to Bangkok where I meet the expedition's participants, then we fly off to Paro on Druk Air in the wee hours of October 3.

I have yet to pack all my photo gear, make sure that whatever needs it is recharged and in working order, and figure how to fit everything I need in my carry-on luggage...always an exercise in spatial ingenuity.

By necessity, posts will slow down while I'm traveling, but I'll try to set some "robot" posts before I leave, and if I have reasonable internet connections in Bhutan, I will keep TTP readers appraised of our progress.

The above image of a Cham dancer in Prakhar was “lomo-ized” via Lightroom.

Photo~Expedition: Theyyams of Malabar

Having forgotten that I would have little time to blog while on my Land of the Druk Yul photo-expedition to Bhutan in a few days, and even less time to properly announce my first photo-expedition of 2009, I decided to do so today!

The Theyyams of Malabar photo-expedition is specifically structured and timed to allow its members to photograph and document the most spectacular ritualistic dances of Northern Kerala: Theyyam.

Our itinerary will take us to the Malabar region of south India, and along with Malabari villagers, attend the Theyyam performances in local temples. Not only will we attend these unique rituals which are scheduled from February 22 to 25, but we shall also encounter smaller Theyyam rituals deep in the forests of Northern Kerala.

India: Theyyam

Photograph © REUTERS/Sivaram V.
The Boston Globe's The Big Picture blog has just posted 34 wonderful photographs from all around India. Many are of everyday life in this amazing country, and some are of unique festivals such as Theyyam, Ganesh Chaturthi, and Pulikali.

Sharp-eyed readers of this blog may wonder why I've posted two photographs of a Theyyam dancer today (scroll down two posts to see the other). Subscribers to my monthly newsletter already know the reason. It will be publicly announced on this blog in a few weeks!

India on The Big Picture blog